![]() ![]() I replaced it with a good new one that is not the same. Like I said though, the condenser (which is a radio noise suppressor) tested bad. I did a diode test on the transistor but I'm not sure what you mean how can I tell if its getting the correct signal from the ecu? I did check the harness there and everything seemed dandy. That plus my checks of CAS wiring mixed with no CAS code tells me all is well there. Pulling the dizzy and turning by hand with key on was done by p.o. Okay i guess i just thought it was obvious from my mention of fuel smell in exh that it was getting fuel. If you hear none of this then I would look into your CAS wiring adn you can also pin out on the power transistor and make sure its getting the correct signal from the ecu to fire the coil. ![]() Anyway, have you pulled the dizzy with the key in the on position and rotated the dizzy by hand? You should hear the injectors click and you will also hear the coil spark. I was just asking to make doubly sure was all. Is it possible the condenser I bought isn't close enough to stock, and therefore the coil isn't getting the negative signal from the PTU and ECU? If anyone can solve this mystery for me, I will buy them a f*cking cookie. Others include neutral, AC, speed sensor. replaced harness due to poor running condition under 3k rpm and general bastardization of original. I realize I type a lot, so here is a breakdown of it all: I finally settled for one that "looked like it might work" but of course I still have no spark, otherwise I wouldn't be typing this. No auto parts store near me catalogs the item on their computer. Mine has the specs stamped on the case so I tried going through Radio Shack's supply of capacitors but couldn't find one similar. After searching and searching, I found that these usually don't go bad (ever) and are therefore impossible to find a stock replacement. Test results proved it to be bad, and has no continuity between leads whatsoever. The only big thing I have found that did not test good was the condenser. Power transistor tested good, as did the replacement. The coil tested good but was also replaced with a known working one. Also have checked fusible links, fuses, relays. I have done all the checks and tests I can find or think of that is pertinent to spark harness continuity to and from CAS, check for shorts, same at the coil. salvaged for this came from an n/a 86 Z, although from what I have studied in the manual there aren't any differences between the vg30e and vg30et that would keep the car from running. All leads there seem fine now and after installing the theft deterrent relays it will turn over with the key. I re-wired the ignition switch and tested it since there was a very shotty push button start done. A reman was purchased and I started to work on it. During that task, he replaced the engine harness and seemingly fried the ECU. ![]() This included replacing sensors that had been ditched and ditching other components that hadn't. was having problems with how the car was running under 3k rpm (possible knock sensor?) And began trying to undo the hack jobs that whatever hillbilly who had the car before him had done. I have been scouring these forums and others, as well as the FSM, for the past few weeks trying to get this heap to run. All else aside, I'm a WyoTech graduate (2009, marine technology) but before (and since) then I have built a few rock crawlers and tuner cars. Please note that I am not a rookie at turning wrenches or diagnosing problems. I have regretted the trade that led me to this car a few times but I'm timing with it. I recently acquired a red 86 Turbo Z that has been through some rough shit. I am on my second Z, the first being a white 86 na that I had for a year or so. Being that my "computer" is an android phone, there might be some stupid typos, autocorrects, grammar, or punctuation errors that escape my eye. Hi all, I guess here goes for my newbie thread.
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